11 Nov ITINERARY: My Very Bavarian Road Trip
Today I’m taking a quick break from my usual mid-Atlantic travel coverage to feature my recent road trip through Bavarian Germany and Salzburg, Austria.
Bavaria is best known for its abundance of picture-perfect villages with ornately painted wood houses, fairy tale castles, green farmland dotted with friendly tan and white cows, traditional bierhauses with overflowing liters of beer and a close proximity to the towering snowy peaks of the Alps.
To say that this region makes for an ideal road trip is an understatement. Here, driving is easy (even for those of us that don’t speak German…) and is truly the best way to experience the area since everything is located so closely together.
My boyfriend Scott and I visited in mid-October, when the changing colors of the leaves were at peak splendor. With a trip that lasted just 6 days, I did a lot of research to find the absolute best of the best places to visit. I feel confident that we made the most of the time we had without packing too much in.
So, without further ado, here is my very Bavarian road trip!
And a very special thanks to the Bruised Passports blog, which was a great resource as I researched the best Bavarian places to visit, as well as my colleague Erin and her former-Germany-living dad, who reviewed my itinerary and gave it their informed seal of approval, which I so appreciated!
DAY 1: MUNICH
We spent our first day exploring Bavaria’s capital city, Munich. Munich is known for being the hub of all Oktoberfest activities and while the festival had wrapped up prior to our visit, the rowdy spirt of bier halls endures year round. The historic district is very walkable, and it’s easy to spend the day (or two, if you have an extra day to spare) exploring the city.
TIP: For a good overview of the city, we checked out the free —yes, free!— 3 hour walking tours by InMunich, which meets at 10:40 every day in the Marienplatz square. Just be sure to leave your guide a nice tip if you enjoyed your tour as much as we did!
Here are some landmarks that we made a point to see during our visit to Munich.
DAY 2: GARMISCH-PARTENKIRCHEN AREA EXPLORATION
On Day 2, it was time to say “Auf Wiedersehen!” to Munich, and drive about an hour south to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, the gateway to the Alps! We stayed in Garmisch for 2 nights and found it to be incredibly centrally-located for all of the places we wanted to visit in the area. (Another perk: It was located in the shadow of the Zugspitze, the highest peak in Germany, which provided amazing views.)
Stop 1: Partnach Gorge
Upon arriving in Garmisch, we headed straight to the Partnach Gorge for a hike. Maybe it was the vivid colors of the fall leaves, or the bright blue rushing water of the river, or the cascading waterfalls that seemed to be around every bend of the river, but this beautiful trail was one of my favorite quick-hikes ever.
The trail at Partnach Gorge follows right alongside the river. But it can get really crowded, so it’s best to get there early in the day.
Stop 2: The Garmisch Classic
The Garmisch-area has a number of gondola/ ski lifts that help day-tripping tourists to get to the top of the area’s peaks. The most famous is the Zugspitze, where a $52 euro ticket gets you on a gondola (or gondola + cogwheel train combo– your choice) to the top of the nearly 10,000 foot-high peak. But arguably the 2nd most popular is the Garmisch Classic, half the price at $26 euro, which is what we opted to do.
I am so happy with our choice– the Garmisch Classic ticket covers 3 invigorating gondola rides up, around and down the 6,725 foot Osterfelderkopf peak. It was amazing how quickly we went from the ground up to pure, snowy iconic Alps scenery. It ended up being one of my favorite parts of the entire trip.
At each of the 3 cable car stops, there’s a restaurant where travelers can get beer, wine and Bavarian food. Best food-with-a-view spot in Germany, I’d say!
Stop 3: The Hotel Edelweiss
When we were in Munich, we were chatting with our walking tour guide and shared that Garmisch-area was our next stop. He inquired, “Are you staying at the Hotel Edelweiss?” And we responded with a surprised, “Yes!” When we drove to Garmisch and continued our exploration of the area, we found that “Hotel Edelweiss” must be the most common hotel name in Bavaria because they seemed to be everywhere.
But, regardless if it was our Hotel Edelweiss he was referring to or not, we were so pleased with this little Bavarian gem. From the wooden window boxes overflowing with perky red and pink flowers, to the friendly staff and lovely free breakfast, to our room’s giant balcony that looked towards the Alps, it was a cheerful place to return to after a full day of exploring.
Stop 4: Mittenwald
The brightly-colored town of Mittenwald is an easy 25-minute drive from Garmisch. Despite a bit of early-evening rain, I loved the colorful houses painted in the traditional Bavarian style along the main Obermarkt street. On Sunday many of the stores were closed, so the town (which I imagine is often packed with people) was fairly quiet. It was a pretty magical sight, and it was worth the little detour.
DAY 3: CASTLE-MANIA
Stop 1: Linderhof Palace
King Ludwig II ruled Bavaria from the age of 18, from 1864-1886. Today’s, the “Mad King” is known more for his eccentric personality than his regal achievements. He’s known for the castles he built, too, which also happen to be some of the best attractions in Bavaria. (He may have been eccentric, but no one can say he didn’t have great taste!)
First up, was the palace which Ludwig II built to be his residence, Linderhof Palace. It’s nestled in the mountains and while the castle’s interior is surely something to marvel at, in my opinion it’s the grounds that really makes this palace so spectacular.
We also discovered some incredibly social swans on the Palace’s grounds
Stop 2: Ettal Abbey
A quick 10 minute drive down the road lead us to Ettal Abbey, which is home to a distillery and one of the few remaining Bavarian breweries still operated by monks. The brewery offers limited tours, but otherwise isn’t open to the public. But after walking through the gorgeous 10-sided church and exploring the grounds a bit, that didn’t stop us from sampling the brews… right next door at the Edelweiss Restaurant. (Yes, another Edelweiss!)
The Cafe Edelweiss was like a beacon… of beer!
The Weissbier (wheat beer) was some of our favorite beer from the whole trip… Those monks really know what they’re doing!
Stop 3: Oberammergau
By now, we were getting pretty hungry, so we drove the quick 7 minutes to the iconically Bavarian town of Oberammergau. I was so glad we stopped because not only was the scenery gorgeous (the town’s ideally situated under a high, snowy peak) but we also had one of the best meals of our entire trip.
Scott has a real talent for finding awesome places, so when I tasked him with picking our lunch spot I should have known that he wouldn’t disappoint! He ended up picking s’Wirtshaus, which seemed to be a local favorite. (We were the only non-German-speaking patrons there!) I got to have pork schnitzel with to-die-for roasted potatoes while he enjoyed a good vegetarian meal of veggie crepes. A round of beer later and we both left happy and full.
Stop 4: Neuschwanstein Castle
Our last stop of the day was Ludwig II’s legendary Neuschwanstein Castle. I’m a Disney girl at heart, so having the opportunity to see the inspiration for Disney’s Sleeping Beauty Castle in person was too much to resist. So off we went, into the green Bavarian countryside.
These cows were missing their cow friends, who were in a field across the road
The castle lies high above the town of Schwangau, which is also home to the Hohenschwangau Castle (Ludwig II’s childhood home.) The scene was utterly, totally chaotic with so many tourists all trying to figure out how to get up to Neuschwanstein. We found our way onto a shuttle bus, and after a steep, winding ride uphill we disembarked at the entrance to the palace.
Sadly, during our visit the Marienbrucke Bridge was closed, so we were unable to see some of the more iconic views of the palace, but I still loved getting to visit this famous attraction.
We didn’t pay to do a tour of the castle, but all are allowed into the main courtyard. That was enough of a peek for us!
DAY 4: HEADING EAST
On Day 4, it was time to leave Garmisch and move on to our next destination: Salzburg, Austria!
The drive was an easy 2 hours and 20 minutes on the Autobahn—which surprisingly wasn’t as terrifying as I expected…—But rather than driving straight to Salzburg, we spent the day exploring towns and attractions along the way.
Stop 1: Chiemsee
After visiting Linderhof and Neuschwanstein castles, when we heard there was a third Ludwig II palace on our way, we thought ‘why not go for the trifecta?!‘ So, off we went to Chiemsee to visit the Mad King’s largest palace, Herrenchiemsee.
Visiting this particular castle is extra awesome because in order to get to it, you’ve got to take a ferry across the Chiemsee lake, which at 9 miles long is the largest lake in Bavaria. Think of it as two attractions for the price of one!
The ferry ride to the castle’s island, Herreninsel, is only about 15 minutes from the port of Prien am Chiemsee. If you have time, you can also take the ferry to the Fraueninsel island, which has a Benedictine nunnery and a small village.
Ludwig II modeled his royal palace Herrenchiemsee after Versailles, but sadly it was never completed
Stop 2: Berchtesgaden
After visiting Chiemsee, we hit the road again and continued east. Shortly before we were about to reach Salzburg, we veered south to visit Berchtesgaden, a town that some consider to be the prettiest in Bavaria.
Berchtesgaden is nestled in the mountains right along the Austrian border. The village’s historic district was utterly charming, with narrow streets lined with brightly-painted buildings, packed cafes with bustling tables and a welcoming atmosphere. It was the perfect place to stop for a late lunch.
A square in downtown historic Berchtesgaden
Brew with a view
It’s hard to imagine that a place so cheery has ties to Adolf Hitler, but alas Berchtesgaden is also home to Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest retreat. We opted to skip a visit and instead headed to a more upbeat attraction on the outskirts of town.
Stop 3: Salzbergwerk
While this part of Germany is most known for its activities that can be found above ground, under the earth’s surface lies a unique attraction that is equally worth a trip… Berchtesgaden’s Salzbergwerk salt mines.
Salt has been mined in this region since the 12th century. The “white gold” that still is mined today was responsible for much of the area’s wealth and affluence. Today, visitors can take an entertaining 1 hour tour that had us sliding down huge wooden chutes (SO fun!), walking through deep tunnels and riding across an underground lake on a raft. It was a great time, and the best part? You get to don super-stylish mining jump suits! (Ha!)
DAY 5: SALZBURG
We arrived to Salzburg late on day 4 of our trip. After such a busy day, we were pretty tired, so we grabbed a bite to eat near our hotel and hit the sack pretty hard. But day 5 was our only day in Salzburg, so we knew we had to make the most of it.
It didn’t take long for me to realize that Salzburg is a really fascinating city. It is incredibly old, with settlements dating back to 15 BC. The old town is partially protected by high stone walls and a medieval fortress that looms high above the city. It’s clear that the city was originally designed to keep outsiders out, but today the Salzburg’s historic district is full of warmth… and music.
In fact music is probably Salzburg’s most notable draw because not only is it the home of Mozart, but the Sound of Music was famously filmed at locations throughout the city. Whether it’s advertisements promoting classical concerts or Mozart’s face painted on artisanal chocolates, musical touches are everywhere throughout the city.
We definitely made the most of our day in Salzburg. Here are some highlights:
One more shot of the Mirabell Palace… I couldn’t believe my luck when a bride and groom just strolled into the shot!
We ended up at the Augustiner Braustubl just in time for “happy hour”! With an underground market, long communal tables and some super-tasty beer, it was probably our favorite bier hall of the whole trip!
DAY 6: HEAD HOME
The next day, we had a nice breakfast in Salzburg then headed back to Munich to fly home. Do I wish we had another 6 days to continue our exploration of Bavaria? Heck yeah! But I really felt like we got to see a lot of the region… and it leaves us with a good reason to come back soon!
Did I make it to YOUR favorite places in Bavaria? Let me know in the comments below!
Tony R
Posted at 10:22h, 13 NovemberYour surely packed a lot in over six days! Seems like advance planning is the key.
Marie
Posted at 05:05h, 26 DecemberI too agree but not too much. Advance planning gives you an overly packed sometimes. But it is great too when you rethink of what really is great to pack and can leave other things behind.
Fakhree
Posted at 06:13h, 31 JanuaryIts a great trip
I am trying to do a similar trip this April .We fly into Amsterdam and fly out of Munich .
We have 14 days of which 5 days will be for visiting Amsterdam ,Bruges and Ghent .
We then have 9 days for Germany wherein we would like to do Berlin ,Alpine Road and Munich(not necessarily in that order) before we fly back from Munich .
Pls suggest what we should include/skip in the German section .Do you advise we cut down(eliminate) the time in Belgium if the need be .
Thanks
Fakhree
Posted at 04:38h, 09 FebruaryHi
Fantastic trip you have made here .
I want to plan something similar for my family
I am travelling to NL Belgium and Germany for 14 days in April with my family of a total of 6 people (3 adults and 3 children aged 11,9 and 3)
Tentative Plan is as below :
The arrival city is Amsterdam and the departure city is Munich .
Our general itinerary is
3 days Amsterdam
2 days Bruges
3 days Berlin
6 days Munich and Bavaria
Co-incidentally i have kept 6 days for Munich and Bavaria(Just as in your itinerary)
I wanted to know if after doing 3 days in Amsterdam ,should we skip the Belgian section(thereby saving 2 days there )and add the same for the german section ?
Thanks
Christina Ricchiuti
Posted at 21:15h, 09 FebruaryHey- your trip sounds amazing! If I were you, I’d keep Belgium in there. 6 days in Bavaria is really adequate to get a good feel for the area, and why not keep an extra country in your agenda? But whatever you decide, you really can’t go wrong. 🙂
Fakhree
Posted at 05:35h, 10 FebruaryThanks for endorsing the itinerary to include Belgium .You have saved me a lot of valuable time in deciding whether TO DO Belgium or NO TO DO Belgium .
Also since we have only 1 day for Munich ,will skipping Salzburg make sense ?
An extra country ????Do you mean over and above the already planned countries in the existing itinerary ?
Thanks
mj
Posted at 10:28h, 08 JanuaryThanks so much for sharing your trip. I was wondering what your thoughts would be doing a similar trip/itinerary but in a camper van? We are thinking of doing a 10 day road trip this summer, but really like the idea of being to camp and stay more in the national parks.
thanks!
mj
Christina Ricchiuti
Posted at 11:28h, 31 JanuaryI didn’t see any camper vans while I was traveling around Bavaria, but honestly I think that would be a lovely way to explore the region!! Everything is very drivable and easy to get around, and the roads weren’t too narrow. (Except in places like the Partnach Gorge in Garmish.) Sounds like a fantastic trip– you’ll have to report back and let us know how it went!
Kerry
Posted at 11:53h, 09 MayThis is so helpful as I’m planning my honeymoon road trip in Bavaria for Sept!! Christina, do you have a recco on a good place to rent a car in Munich for the road trip? Thanks in advance!
Mari
Posted at 12:52h, 21 JuneAgh, would be amazing to do a roadtrip through Bavaria. If only I could drive or had friends willing ti do the trip with me. :'( Well, I am going to Nurnberg and Heidelberg this August and traveling to them by bus feom Munich. That’s almost as good, right? :’) Mittenwald looks heavenly. They should pay yoy for that picture.
Edward Yang
Posted at 07:02h, 09 SeptemberDear Christina,
Thanks for sharing and the amazing photos. My wife and I with my son and his wife will be doing a 7 day driving holiday in Bavaria in October. I am tempted to repeat your entire trip with some input from bruised passport site as well.
Edward
KW
Posted at 00:07h, 13 MarchHi its such a lovely and great journey. In fact i plan to austria by end of the year. But now i had 2nd thought after reading your blog. Me and my wife would always fascinating about driving trips across the countries. Could you share estimation cost of this trips include car rental, meal and accommodation?
Thank you
Christina Ricchiuti
Posted at 15:48h, 17 AprilOooh, that’s a tough one. I don’t remember costs offhand, except that it was much more reasonable than I expected– especially to eat and drink. I am sure you could do it pretty affordably!
Candy
Posted at 20:22h, 23 MarchA great itinerary which I would definitely consider for our next family trip! Some questions though –
1) Will a 6 and 9 yr old be able to do a hike in Partnach Gorge? How long is the hike?
2) Will the snow be all year round in Garmisch as we will be visiting on the month of June
3) Are kids allowed in the salt mine?
Christina Ricchiuti
Posted at 15:51h, 17 AprilHi Candy! Sorry for my delay.
1.) Yes — absolutely. It’s less of a hike than a nice stroll if I recall correctly. There’s hiking, too, but the main walk along the gorge is pretty accessible for all ages. Less than an hour for adults!
2.) Down on the ground- no. But up on the mountains, I’m sure! My photos were taken in October when it was fairly warm.
3.) Yes, definitely! It’s most popular for kids, I think (though we had a blast, too!)
craig johnson
Posted at 13:56h, 01 AprilSounds like a great road trip. We did a similar trip with a neice about 10 years ago in the winter and are going back in early Sept. to see Munich, Bavarian Alps and Salzburg when the weather is warmer and we can hike. We will have 10 days before heading to Amalfi Coast, the heel of Italy and Sicily for 5 weeks, so this itinerary really helps. thanks. Craig
Christina Ricchiuti
Posted at 15:46h, 17 AprilI’m SO glad– enjoy your trip!! September would be a great time of year to go.
Pui
Posted at 12:39h, 09 SeptemberHi Christina, can you advise where to take the Garmisch Classic Gondola? I am not sure about the information found online. We are planning a trip there this Oct. Thanks!
Christina Ricchiuti
Posted at 17:15h, 22 SeptemberHi Pui– I believe there is only one place to depart with the gondola, and then several stops along the way up the mountain before descending. Enjoy your journey!
Cynthia Phillips
Posted at 20:31h, 29 OctoberHow difficult is it to drive in that area?
Mahadzir
Posted at 20:10h, 02 JanuaryHi Christina,
I love the trip details that you share here. I am planning to do a road trip in the Bavarian area early February. There will be 6 of us (4 adults and 2 kids). We will be flying in and stay in Munich for 2 nights prior to starting our road trip.
I am a bit covern about driving during winter as this will be my first experience driving in the Bavarian area. Do you think it is generally safe to drive in winter in the area? Would appreciate your suggestions to improve my planned itinerary.
Day 1
11:00am – 12:45pm : Drive from Munich to Fussen
12:45pm – 4:00pm: Enjoy Neuschwanstein Castle
4:00pm – 5:00pm: Drive from Fussen to Zugspitze (stay overnite in Zugspitze)
Day 2
9:00am – 4:00pm: Enjoy Zugspitze (enjoy snow on the Alps)
4:00pm – 6:00pm: Drive from Zugspitze to Tegernsee (stay overnite in Tegernsee)
Day 3
9:00am – 12:00pm: Enjoy Tegernsee
12:00pm – 3:00pm: Drive from Tegernsee to Rothenburg ob der Tauber (stay overnite in Rothenburg)
Day 4
3:00pm – 5:30pm: Drive from Rothenburg to Munich
Day 5
9:00am – 11:00am: Drive from Munich to Salzburg
11:00am – 5:00pm: Enjoy Salzburg and Eagle Nest
5:00pm – 7:00pm: Drive from Salzburg to Munich
Day 6
Fly out of Munich
Christina Ricchiuti
Posted at 13:40h, 23 JanuaryHi! Thanks for reaching out! I’m not sure about the driving conditions in the winter months. We visited in the fall when there wasn’t any issue with snow.
Regarding your itinerary, you’ve added some places that I haven’t yet been to– the only thing I’d suggest is that doing Salzburg in one day is very tight. I’d recommend you either spend the night in Salzburg on Day 5 and drive back to Munich in the morning or just go to Munich and spend the day and night there so you have time to really enjoy it. Otherwise you’re spending more time driving than exploring! Enjoy your trip.
Kim Morehouse
Posted at 02:04h, 30 JulyHi Christina,
We are taking a trip in September and driving trip southern Bavaria, but can’t decide where to stay Garmisch or Mittenwald? Thoughts? Would definitely like to do the hike. Your trip/itinerary looked wonderful!
Thanks,
Kim
Christina Ricchiuti-Dubin
Posted at 16:47h, 11 AugustHi Kim!
I would recommend staying in Garmisch – there are more options for where to stay and where to eat. It’s a really nice home base and very central for much of the Bavarian exploration, including Mittenwald. Thanks for your kind words — we LOVED our trip to Germany. This region is so beautiful and accessible and pretty reasonable, too. Hope you have the BEST trip!
Kristen K.
Posted at 17:24h, 06 SeptemberLove this! My husband and I are doing a Bavarian roadtrip soon 🙂 do you remember how much gas for this trip cost you? We are planning on a small 2 door car. Thank you!
Christina Ricchiuti-Dubin
Posted at 14:39h, 20 SeptemberNo– not much though, I’m sure! Everything is very close together. Have a wonderful trip!
Kimberly A Bosnak
Posted at 13:16h, 30 JulyWe are flying into Nuremberg – staying first night at Colmberg Castle then headed to Fussen to see Neuschwanstein Castle will be there for two days (I think – no reservations yet) before heading to Amsterdam – Question is should we drive into Austria and Switzerland before heading to Amsterdam – would you recommend driving to Amsterdam –
Our total trip is October 3 arrive in Nuremberg October 12 home Only hotel that is booked is COlmberg Castle for the night. Any suggesstions appreciated.
Christina Ricchiuti-Dubin
Posted at 08:18h, 05 AugustBavaria to Amsterdam seems like an awfully long drive. But I’m sure you’ve plotted it out and I bet it will be an incredible drive– so many fun things to see along the way!
If you want to venture into Austria I’d recommend you head to Salzburg like we did — it’s a short drive (maybe 2 hours or so), relatively scenic and Salzburg can easily be done in a night or two.
Enjoy!
Wendy
Posted at 15:21h, 03 AugustHi! A girlfriend and I are doing nearly this same trip near the end of October. Your itinerary looks perfect and is so helpful! Any clothing recommendations from your trip, especially footwear?
Christina Ricchiuti-Dubin
Posted at 08:15h, 05 AugustI’m so glad you found my itinerary helpful. It remains one of my favorite trips ever. I think layers are always a good bet and we did have some rainy days so I’d bring a good rain coat so you don’t have to stop your travels because of weather. As for shoes, just bring a good pair of walking shoes. The Garmisch gorge also gets a little wet and slippery so if you’re looking to make that a stop in your trip (which I highly recommend) make sure you’ve got shoes with good traction. Have a great trip!
Brittany ransom
Posted at 18:00h, 04 AugustI plan on doing a solo trip to Munich in the beginning of January. I know I want to go to the neuschwanstein castle and thought about taking a train to Salzburg for a day. I do not want to rent a car so do you have any tips traveling around the towns of Bavaria?
Christina Ricchiuti-Dubin
Posted at 08:12h, 05 AugustWe rented a car and unfortunately I don’t have tips for how to do the area without renting a car. I will say that I was incredibly impressed with the ease of the roads and street signage. It was really easy for us to navigate around Bavaria, especially once we got out of Munich, which had the normal city congestion. Sorry I couldn’t be more of help with traveling carless. Have a great trip!
Hilmi
Posted at 22:45h, 27 FebruaryHi Christina, may I know when was the date of your trip? I love Autumn vibe and view very much, Just to check when will be the best date to enjoy similar colorful foliage view like yours. Thanks in advance
Christina Ricchiuti-Dubin
Posted at 15:29h, 21 AprilHi Hilmi– we went in late October!
Bailey Abroad
Posted at 13:57h, 03 AprilWe were in Bavaria in July of 2015, your autumn photos are incredible! Especially at Linderhof, all the colors give the grounds an entirely different feel. We didn’t get to tour any of the castles due to crowds and completely missed Herrenchiemsee, but I’m planning my next trip in winter to see them all in the snow!